The Mansion: A Feast For All The Senses

By Pete & Mike/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Mansion (man´ sh n) n: A large and stately dwelling.

When we set out for “The Mansion at the Woodlands,” we were a bit concerned that we might encounter a stuffy place, perhaps better geared to the foodie fogey than today’s fun-loving foodies. Worry not; although the building and décor said stately, the warmth and hospitality said “casual, enjoyable, upscale quality.”

A gentle touch of elegance, a dab of classic refinement, professional service, and the finest food you’d expect to find anywhere in the exceptional kitchens of Long Island’s Gold Coast complements the Mansion and its glorious surroundings. The inspired traditional American fare with flair, represents the best work yet of executive chef David Salony.

Over the past decade, Salony has been the main man behind the menus of a number of the Island’s outstanding eateries owned by restaurateur H. Singh and often guided by celebrity chef Tom Shaudel. Salony has taken the best of Shaudel’s kitchen magic and gilded it with “Gold Coast” verve. His menu tweaks, blends and modifies some of the excitement you’ve found in the group’s other kitchens at Thom Thom, Coolfish, Tease, Passionfish and more. But here in the Mansion, every dish is important and care has been taken to satisfy the most discriminating taste buds and the fussiest of diners.

We feel the need to overemphasize that they are not stodgy. Perhaps the square bread and dinner plates make the statement most effectively that the Mansion should not be categorized as one of those places only for dress-up, special occasions. At one table, there was a woman with shiny sequined top and clingy bottom, while the foursome to our left wore polo shirts and slacks.

The Mansion is upstairs at the Woodlands, the first-class catering facility located on the beautiful golf course of the Town of Oyster Bay. Reached by a central staircase (they also have an elevator) you enter a dining wonderland housed in a turn of the century mansion. An immense, outdoor patio that overlooks the lush greenery of the golf course will soon be the site of some planned Thursday night magic. Manager Jude Renneisen – formerly at Majors Steakhouse – promises wonderful things for both the outdoor patio and private parties from 15 to 50 in one of the Mansion’s rooms decorated with Impressionist paintings and tasteful subdued lighting. While we were there, a pharmaceutical industry crowd of about 20 were treated to fine wine, great food and a Powerpoint sales pitch . They were in a beautiful room of their own, out of view from those of us who came for dinner.

The menu was best conveyed by Chef Salony’s smile as he described each dish. Here is a man who loves what he does, loves food and has poured that affection and enthusiasm into his work. It shows on his face as he speaks, and in each dish you savor. Salony has stepped out of the shadow of his mentor, Shaudel, and shines as brightly as any of Long Island’s creative culinary craftsmen. Everything his kitchen produces is worth trying, talking about, and remembering.

While you’re choosing from the extensive bar and wine lists, you get to point to the roll you want from the very big bread basket. We sampled all three types offered: a crusty French type, a dark multi-grain, and the dark bread with raisins. All were crunchy on the outside, and soft and tasty inside. Go for the ones with raisins; we promise they’re good enough to ignore the carbs.

The Summer Menu, which just made its debut, starts with some incredible first courses: Fried Blue Point Oysters with Tobiko aiolli and frisse salad ($12); Maryland Lump Crab with tropical fruit soup, basil, chili oil and avocado ($16); Summer Beefsteak Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella, with sliced Portobello mushrooms and a 12-year-old (!) balsamic vinegar ($12); Toasted Hand-Made Gnocchi and Diver scallops with a foie gras corn emulsion and white truffle oil ($13); and one we must go back for, “Tuna, Tuna, Tuna” – a tuna triple threat of tartare-yuzu, tempura teriyaki, and sesame seared chili vinaigrette, with a wasabi leaf, radish salad ($15). Wow!

We however were dazzled with our Watermelon and Watercress salad – a vertical sandwich of yellow seedless watermelon (yes, we said yellow) with watercress in a citrus vinaigrette sprinkled with toasted sesame, drizzled with beet paint and served with chilled watermelon soup ($9) – is a refreshing summertime change of pace starter. The Butter Poached Crabmeat over a tomato tarragon risotto ($15), although heavier, blended two wonderfully rich tastes. The sweet crab meat – the regular menu offers the dish with lobster meat – and an incredible tomato-based sauce forced us to leave not a drop, even though we knew the feast to come.

The entrees are equally exciting, and each plate is a work of art –tastewise and visually. Pan-Seared Salmon is served with 12-hour tomato, zucchini, black olive tapenade lemon oil ($26); the Grilled Prawns in an olive caper emulsion with roasted peppers and purple potato puree are a riot of color ($29); Pan Seared Chilean sea bass in corn broth is accompanied by baby red and gold beets, and fingerling potatoes ($30); Grilled Breast of Chicken in a green herb pesto comes with Portobello mushroom and warm potato salad ($21); and the Grilled NY Sirloin is rich with a lobster bearnaise, creamed spinach and truffle-Parmesan fries ($34).

We two devoured three with delight. The Seared Tuna and Diver scallops in a beurre blanc with toasted sesame seeds and broccoli rabe ($28) was perfectly prepared with the freshest tuna and the sweetest sea scallops of the summer. The cinnamon-anise glaze of the Roasted Rack of Lamb with savory bread and butter pudding and caramelized fennel ($32) was the best tasting lamb dressing we’ve ever been served. The Grilled Beef Tenderloin in a red wine butter with potato bacon scallion cake and asparagus ($30) is a terrific tender and tasty choice for the beef lover. Each was worthy of the feast we enjoyed.

It didn’t stop there -- four desserts (most $8) on those chic square plates were squared off, two by two, in the center of our table. Our task was to taste them all. As tough as it sounds, the Foodies came through. The cherry cheese cake with walnut crust was sheer delight. The banana glace with walnut nougat was a refreshing and exciting taste. The warm apple crepe with cinnamon ice cream was upbeat traditional. But the flourless chocolate cake – the Foodie favorite -- won first place out of four winners.

The dessert menu also offered a cheese plate (3 for $8, 4 for $10, 5 for $12), and chocolate tasting ($12) – we’ll be back.

While the 1912 Mansion may be born out of a Gold Coast era past (industrialist Andrew Mellon gave it to his daughter as a wedding present in 1928), it has been brought into the 21st century with imagination and spirit. For an intimate, romantic dinner for two, a table of four friends, or a small group gathering, an evening at “The Mansion at the Woodlands” will be a memorable one.

The Mansion

At the Woodlands

1 Southwoods Road, Woodbury, 11797

516-921-5707

Cuisine:

New American fare with flair

Atmosphere:

Relaxed elegance

Price Range:

Expensive

Hours:

Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

Main Menu