FOODIE
Nothing Sad About The Blue Room
By Danny & Alexander/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Some things change over time, but one thing has not – make the Blue Room a top stop on your list if you want to eat well in East Northport, especially if you love seafood.

The Blue Room, commandeered by Anastasia Barbatsoulis and chef Nicholas Litterello, has been a fixture on Larkfield Road for four and a half years. What was once a vacant sports bar has become a cozy, inviting space awash in regal, rich navy blues, exposed brick and wood floors. Lighting comes from the abundant windows, skylights and a curved metallic track, which runs the length of the ceiling and has lights fixed to it. It feels like a music-drenched jazz den of years gone by, as it should: Anastasia sings on Sunday nights, and the Little Wilson band performs on Wednesdays. Also worth noting is Sunday’s $25 prix fixe special.

When we opened the worn, blue door and walked through the blue curtains, we were greeted by Gladys Knight and the Pips as we emerged into a wonderfully welcoming space. It’s not big – at capacity, it seats about 50. It’s cozy, well-lit and charming, aptly earning the title of “foodhouse.” For the record, it’s also the first restaurant, coffee shop – anyplace, for that matter – we’ve heard Stevie Wonder’s “You Haven’t Done Nothin’” – an angry, funky protest song about Richard Nixon – playing. The music comes from the staff’s iPods and covers funk, classic R&B and the blues.

The menu has been affected in the aftermath of Hurricane Ike – we were eyeballing the popcorn crawfish ($8) but many restaurants have been unable to get crawfish and redfish.

Presentation is perhaps one of The Blue Room’s strongest suits. When the situation calls for it, the food is cleverly presented in a manner appropriate to the dish. For example, fried rock shrimp ($9 is) is served in a jaunty miniature fry basket, and the Asian-glazed takeout shrimp served in a white Chinese takeaway-style dish with chopsticks ($9). And, the flavors that create the dishes don’t overwhelm the food – they complement them and make it shine. Nick sure has a way with his spices, and a quick – or, in our case, fairly thorough – jaunt across the menu uncovers that fact in a hurry.

After considering a jumbo lump crab cake ($12) and the takeout shrimp, we started with the rock shrimp and farmer’s salad ($9). The crispy, tender, lightly salted shrimp are served alongside chipotle and citrus aioli dipping sauces. The chipotle is tangy and savory without having that “get-me-a-fire-extinguisher” quality many associate with chipotle, while the aioli, with its zesty lemon kick, is a perfect complement to the dish.

At first blush, the farmer’s salad showcases lush, fresh greens bathed lightly in a sweet, gentle dressing that enhances, rather than dominates, the salad. However, a bit of digging and eating will uncover a flaky, buttery custard tart that evokes thoughts of croissants. It’s filled with a rich layer of crumbed goat’s cheese. In addition, the butternut squash soup ($8), marked by its delightful cinnamon flavor, is an excellent, seasonal choice to chase away any forthcoming autumn chills.

Moving to the main course, the pan-seared filet mignon ($33), baby back ribs ($23) and Australian rack of lamb ($34) were all contenders in the entrée battle royale. A raw bar, featuring selections from Long Island, Nova Scotia and the west coast, was also tempting. But, the ravioli of the day ($21) and Cajun cast-iron catfish ($21) emerged victorious.

The melt-in-your-mouth catfish, served in a black skillet-styled dish, is marked by its subtle, yet sultry spice and a warm crispy exterior. The phenomenal sweet potato mash it comes with has a sweet, poignant flavor, and the warm, leafy greens are marked by a garlic flavor. Anastasia describes it as her go-to dish when she’s having trouble making a decision.

In terms of our ravioli, our selection featured spinach, shrimp and ricotta cheese, creating a delightful smoky flavor. It was served in a mix containing artichoke, sliced nuts and tomato, creating a flavorful, savory broth.

The tender, slightly blackened diver sea scallops ($24) are also a top contender, served on a cinnamon-flavored bed of granny smith apples and butternut squash.

In the dessert column, consider the zeppolis ($7, serves two), which are served festival-style in a brown paper bag. The hot, moist balls of fried, powdered sugar goodness come with chocolate, blueberry and caramel dips. Try it with one of the Blue Room’s delightful cappuccinos, served with cinnamon and rock sugar on a stirrer. If you’re a tea person, the English Chamomile tea, served in a tall, thick teapot, is a good choice for a soothing nightcap.

However, a trip to the Blue Room is not complete without taking a crack at Nick’s Cheesecake ($8). When we took a bite of the rich caramel-dressed confection and savored the crispy crust, we, two fairly loquacious young lads, were rendered momentarily mute. After the first bite, we responded to the other with a nod, unable to process a more erudite verbal response. It’s that good. Get the cheesecake.

The Blue Room

Cuisine: New American with a southern flair

Atmosphere: Bluesy, hospitable, cozy

Price: Medium to expensive

Hours: Monday to Thursday,
4:30 – 10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday
4:30 - 11 p.m.
Sunday 4:30 to 9 p.m.

Main Menu