FOODIE

Black & Blue And Good All Over
By Brian, Susan, Shane & Jake/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Situated in the heart of Huntington’s restaurant district, Black & Blue has replaced Off The Wall, with executive chef Steven Del Lima from Wild Fin in Huntington Village. This CIA grad with more than 16 years in the biz proved his mettle at Auereole, Daniel and other New York City restaurants before opening the acclaimed RSVP in Bayville and later Wild Fin.

In his newest home, Del Lima brings with him a few of his signature seafood dishes that his lucky patrons have enjoyed throughout the years, but also adds hearty chops and innovative concepts to help flesh out one of the most creative menus in town.
On an early Thursday night we took a seat in the large dining room just under a massive, illuminated aquarium that seemed to serve as the primary light source for the room. The décor was comfortable, like a well-heeled den with plush seating and dark colors.

We began our meal with a sample of appetizers: Flash Fried Calamari ($11), Crisped Maryland Lump Crab Cakes ($14) and B*B’s All-Natural, Grass-Fed Argentinean Beef & Gorgonzola Fondue ($16 to share for 2, $28/4, $40/6). The calamari was served crisp with a Thai chili sauce and a Wakame seaweed salad, garnished with black and white sesame seeds and toasted peanuts. For the teenagers dining with us that night, it was the surprise hit of the night.

The crab cakes were soft and smooth, served on an oblong plate with a marinated grape tomato relish and drizzles of toasted walnut and Thai basil pesto aioli. They were delicate and rich, and the pesto served as a perfect complement, adding to the dish with its layers of flavor.

Clearly, the centerpiece was the fondue, with caramelized onion foccacia and seared tenderloin set around a tabletop fondue pot that held a creamy blend of gorgonzola, butter, cream shallots and a few other ingredients that mellowed the cheese and added sweetness to the dish.

Filled from the first course, we only chose three dishes for our entrees: Jalapeño-Bacon-Wrapped Filet Mignon ($36), Sourdough Pretzel Crusted Frenched Chicken Breast ($19) and the “Cowboy Rubbed” Bone-In Ribeye ($38).

The bacon added a kick to the filet, which was served with a creamy side of roasted Fingerling potatoes with Great Hills gorgonzola, lemon-scented baby spinach and a roasted tomato-eggplant jam. The simplicity of the beef, cooked to order, was balanced with the complexity of roasted vegetable jam, and the rich potatoes, which served to cool the palate from the jalapeño’s bite.

The “Frenched” chicken, near boneless except for its wing, was served atop a grain mustard-tomato and leek risotto, and was beneath a bed of Arugula and fennel fricassee. The risotto was the clear palate stealer. Cooked tender but still with solid form, and bursting with tantalizing flavors, we’ll be sure to remember it and wish for a bowl on its own on a cold winter’s night.

The ribeye was served atop roasted asparagus and beside a caramelized onion and Maytag bleu cheese potato cake that was much lighter than it looked and paired perfectly with the veal au jus that accompanied the steak.

Filled from our meal, but willing to try something new from the dessert menu, we had plenty of creative options. Again, a fondue is on the menu, but this time there are three to choose from. We opted for the Milk Chocolate and Peanut Butter Fondue ($15 for 2 people, $25/4, $35/6). It comes served with the same flair as the beef appetizer, but includes marshmallows, fresh strawberries and pineapple and cranberry biscotti for dipping.

We also enjoyed the gelato, which is made to order by chef Del Lima, based on his epicurean whims. We sampled the toasted almond, chocolate chunk, Tahitian vanilla and malted milk ball flavors. We also enjoyed the Brown Butter Bombolini ($8), which were Italian doughnuts with vanilla cream and a brown butter caramel, served with the toasted almond gelato.

The highlight of the desserts was the restaurant’s signature creation – a Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Bar ($8), which is a chocolate and peanut butter mousse atop a brick of chocolate and peanut brittle, served with a run-caramel sauce and garnished with a ball of caramel popcorn.

When a restaurant changes hands, when a chef changes kitchens, when new creations are made in an old location, often the formula does not succeed. That is not the case here. Chef Del Lima has created a menu that proves that innovation and creativity can come in old locations, that you can teach an old chef new tricks, and that Huntington has yet another star to add to its growing repertoire of fine dining choices.

Black & Blue
65 Wall Street
Huntington village
631-385-9255
www.blackandblueny.com

Cuisine: Seafood and chop house
Atmosphere: Luxurious Den
Price Range: Moderate - Expensive
Hours: Lunch Tues-Sat, noon to 3 p.m.
Dinner Tue-Thur, 5-10 p.m
Fri & Sat 5-11 p.m.
Sun 4-9 p.m.

Main Menu