Black & Blue
And Good All Over
By Brian, Susan, Shane & Jake/
Situated in the heart
of Huntingtons restaurant district, Black & Blue
has replaced Off The Wall, with executive chef Steven Del
Lima from Wild Fin in Huntington Village. This CIA grad with
more than 16 years in the biz proved his mettle at Auereole,
Daniel and other New York City restaurants before opening
the acclaimed RSVP in Bayville and later Wild Fin.
In his newest home, Del Lima brings with him a few of his
signature seafood dishes that his lucky patrons have enjoyed
throughout the years, but also adds hearty chops and innovative
concepts to help flesh out one of the most creative menus
On an early Thursday night we took a seat in the large dining
room just under a massive, illuminated aquarium that seemed
to serve as the primary light source for the room. The décor
was comfortable, like a well-heeled den with plush seating
and dark colors.
We began our meal with a sample of appetizers: Flash Fried
Calamari ($11), Crisped Maryland Lump Crab Cakes ($14) and
B*Bs All-Natural, Grass-Fed Argentinean Beef & Gorgonzola
Fondue ($16 to share for 2, $28/4, $40/6). The calamari was
served crisp with a Thai chili sauce and a Wakame seaweed
salad, garnished with black and white sesame seeds and toasted
peanuts. For the teenagers dining with us that night, it was
the surprise hit of the night.
The crab cakes were soft and smooth, served on an oblong plate
with a marinated grape tomato relish and drizzles of toasted
walnut and Thai basil pesto aioli. They were delicate and
rich, and the pesto served as a perfect complement, adding
to the dish with its layers of flavor.
Clearly, the centerpiece was the fondue, with caramelized
onion foccacia and seared tenderloin set around a tabletop
fondue pot that held a creamy blend of gorgonzola, butter,
cream shallots and a few other ingredients that mellowed the
cheese and added sweetness to the dish.
Filled from the first course, we only chose three dishes for
our entrees: Jalapeño-Bacon-Wrapped Filet Mignon ($36),
Sourdough Pretzel Crusted Frenched Chicken Breast ($19) and
the Cowboy Rubbed Bone-In Ribeye ($38).
The bacon added a kick to the filet, which was served with
a creamy side of roasted Fingerling potatoes with Great Hills
gorgonzola, lemon-scented baby spinach and a roasted tomato-eggplant
jam. The simplicity of the beef, cooked to order, was balanced
with the complexity of roasted vegetable jam, and the rich
potatoes, which served to cool the palate from the jalapeños
The Frenched chicken, near boneless except for
its wing, was served atop a grain mustard-tomato and leek
risotto, and was beneath a bed of Arugula and fennel fricassee.
The risotto was the clear palate stealer. Cooked tender but
still with solid form, and bursting with tantalizing flavors,
well be sure to remember it and wish for a bowl on its
own on a cold winters night.
The ribeye was served atop roasted asparagus and beside a
caramelized onion and Maytag bleu cheese potato cake that
was much lighter than it looked and paired perfectly with
the veal au jus that accompanied the steak.
Filled from our meal, but willing to try something new from
the dessert menu, we had plenty of creative options. Again,
a fondue is on the menu, but this time there are three to
choose from. We opted for the Milk Chocolate and Peanut Butter
Fondue ($15 for 2 people, $25/4, $35/6). It comes served with
the same flair as the beef appetizer, but includes marshmallows,
fresh strawberries and pineapple and cranberry biscotti for
We also enjoyed the gelato, which is made to order by chef
Del Lima, based on his epicurean whims. We sampled the toasted
almond, chocolate chunk, Tahitian vanilla and malted milk
ball flavors. We also enjoyed the Brown Butter Bombolini ($8),
which were Italian doughnuts with vanilla cream and a brown
butter caramel, served with the toasted almond gelato.
The highlight of the desserts was the restaurants signature
creation a Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Bar ($8), which
is a chocolate and peanut butter mousse atop a brick of chocolate
and peanut brittle, served with a run-caramel sauce and garnished
with a ball of caramel popcorn.
When a restaurant changes hands, when a chef changes kitchens,
when new creations are made in an old location, often the
formula does not succeed. That is not the case here. Chef
Del Lima has created a menu that proves that innovation and
creativity can come in old locations, that you can teach an
old chef new tricks, and that Huntington has yet another star
to add to its growing repertoire of fine dining choices.
65 Wall Street
Seafood and chop house
Atmosphere: Luxurious Den
Price Range: Moderate - Expensive
Hours: Lunch Tues-Sat,
noon to 3 p.m.
Dinner Tue-Thur, 5-10 p.m
Fri & Sat 5-11 p.m.
Sun 4-9 p.m.