FOODIE
A Feast For The Gods At Greek Village
By Luann & Richard / foodie@longislandernews.com

In 1956, Milton Steliaros, a young immigrant from the Greek Island of Chios made his way to America and began his career in the restaurant business. He opened Greek Village restaurant less than 30 years later, and has been bringing authentic Greek cuisine to Commack ever since.

In a business where new players pop up daily and old veterans unexpectedly fizzle out, Greek Village is celebrating its 28th year on Veteran’s Highway, just east of the road’s split with Jericho Turnpike. Now a partnership between Milton and his son Aristides, Greek Village is where a comfortable atmosphere meets classic Greek cuisine and consistency is the name of the game.

Aristides said the restaurant’s secret is simple: “Just using good ingredients.” At Greek Village, all herbs used are grown in-house, and all dishes are made on premises. That fresh fact is evident in no better place than Milton’s salad dressing – a delightful take on a traditional oil-based dressing that Milton created shortly after opening the restaurant. We don’t know what was in it, but we know we liked it, and at $3.50 a bottle available for purchase, we thought about getting some to take home and enjoy.

A counter displaying dozens of homemade desserts meets the eye when you walk in. A little seating area to the right with vines hanging overhead and a fountain spouting water on the wall almost transports one overseas as melodies of soft, but lively, Greek music plays in the background.

We started with a round of appetizers to whet our palates, beginning with pita bread and caviar dip, a welcome change from the more traditional butter spread. We also opted for the humos ($7.50), simple, fresh and perfect on a pita or with vegetables. A cold salad of kidney beans, chicpeas and onions is a pleasant, refreshing surprise for something so straightforward, and of course, a Greek salad with Milton’s dressing is a must; but it was the Boureki ($5.25) that stole the show. More than enough for a meal for two, the Boureki’s flakey phyllo dough comes stuffed with warm, spicy ground lamb mixed with feta and herbs.

Delighted by the Boureki, we moved on to our dinners. The chicken gyro ($8.25 for a sandwich, $14.25 for the platter) comes well seasoned and flavorful with each flat strip folded over in perfect presentation.

Choosing a broiled tilapia filet for our second entrée was easy – we heard Greek Village has good fish dishes – but picking a sauté proved harder than we thought. Upon the advice of our server, we went “Mykonos Style,” ($17.95) with tender sautéed artichokes, capers, garlic, lemon and white wine. The capers provide a burst of flavor with every bite and the fish comes plentiful and moist, but is still cooked thoroughly. Long, seasoned potato wedges come as a tasty and crisp side.

Dessert can only be described as sweet, heavenly bliss. Homemade baklava, phyllo dough layered with almonds and walnuts, comes cooked to a golden brown, then soaked in honey syrup and dusted with powdered sugar ($3.95). The crisp top layers play well against the sweet syrup-soaked bottom layers. And Milton’s homemade cheesecake ($3.50) was so rich, so creamy, so delicious, that we literally forgot our topic of conversation after taking a bite.
With a friendly wait staff, wide array of dinner specials (that included a tempting coconut crusted catfish) and affordable lunch specials Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., it’s no secret to us why Greek Village has been around for so long. We’ll be sure to stop by again; a few more dishes are calling our name.

Greek Village
44 Veterans Highway
Commack
631-499-6590
www.greekvillagecommack.com

Cuisine: Greek
Atmosphere: Comfortable, casual dining
Hours:
Mon-Thu 11am-9pm,
Fri-Sat 11am-11pm,
Sun 11am-9pm



Main Menu

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