FOODIE
Soy With A Side Of Compassion
By Ellen & Max / foodie@longislandernews.com

Wendy Yu’s son tells her every day that it’s about that time. Time to retire. But for Yu, co-owner of Green Melody restaurant in Jericho now is no time to retire. She is in the midst of a life changing moment, not only for herself, but for every diner that walks through Green Melody’s doors.

Yu and co-owner Helen Chang have been running the vegetarian restaurant at 519 North Broadway with a few goals in mind, however, each day one stands apart from the rest and that is to educate people on where their food comes from and the effects a meat-based diet has on the environment and more importantly, animals. While enlightening diners, the ladies are also proving that you can enjoy a generous plate of General Tso’s ($13.50) or Veggie Sesame Chicken ($13.50) each dish offering the traditional flavors to be expected.

The educational, yet tranquil, experience at Green Melody begins when you step through the restaurant’s doorway and a large poster explaining the ins-and-outs of the soybean and detailing its many culinary uses, from tofu to soy protein, meets your eye. Just beyond that poster, framed paintings of lily pads, lotus flowers and authentic Chinese calligraphy line the walls while the instrumentals of John Lennon’s “Imagine” and Simon and Garfunkel’s “The Sound of Silence” drift through the restaurant as the hostess shows you to your seat.

Although we chose to start our meal with a refreshing Passion Fruit Iced Tea ($3.50) and a fresh Mixed Fruit Juice Combo ($3.50), that tickles your tongue with a slight tartness of strawberry followed by the sweetness of pear and apple, each table receives a small plate of pickled cabbage, steaming hot pot of jasmine tea and water with lemon to whet their palate as they mull over the soup and appetizer selections.

On this visit, Chang’s son David was our server and eager to answer any question we had, as well as any question many of the curious dinners sitting near us that Saturday afternoon may have had. David recommended the Veggie Sea Food Soup for two ($7.95), a dish even long times vegans- individuals who do not consume any animal derived products including eggs and dairy- like us wouldn’t normally have ordered, but as soon as the warm spoon reached our lips we were glad that David pulled us from our comfort zone. The flavorful soup brimming with Japanese bean curd –similar to tofu, shitake mushrooms, imitation crab meat made from soy protein and imitation shark fin is an experience in itself, with a broth similar to a traditional hot and sour soup and the imitation crab meat offering a hint of seafood flavor.

For the less daring, there is always the traditional Wonton Soup for one ($2), wontons filled with minced vegetables and fresh baby spinach leaves floating in a light vegetable broth, or the Veggie Chicken Corn Soup for two ($5.25), a savory soup of sweet corn, minced soy chicken and Japanese tofu.

We then dabbled in an assortment of appetizers including Barbecue Veggie Ribs ($6.75), Barbecue Veggie Duck ($6.75), Moo Shu Rolls ($5.50) Veggie Chicken Rolls ($6.75) Pan Fried Veggie Dumplings ($5.50) and something you may not traditionally find on a Chinese menu, Latkes ($5.75). The Latkes, fluffy pillows of mashed potatoes breaded panko style and deep-fried highlight the kosher aspect of this restaurant, which is, in fact, kosher certified and entirely vegan. More interesting are the Barbecue Veggie Ribs and Duck, both made from wheat gluten, yet tasting nothing like one another, all due to the way each appetizer is prepared and cooked, David explained. The ribs, slathered in a Hoisin sauce, have a smoky flavor trapped within their crisp outer layer and while they have a nice bite to them are not overly chewy. The veggie duck, made from the same wheat gluten, takes on a chewier, fattier texture with a saltier flavor, uncannily similar to real duck.

After the enlightening Veggie Seafood Soup, we chose to follow David and Yu’s suggestions once again when it came time to order our entrees. Yu brought out the Wheel of Dharma ($15.50), an entrée that acts as the perfect representation of the restaurant’s namesake. The textures and flavors of each component of the meal play as a soothing melody on the palate. The breaded and lightly fried shitake mushrooms, nestled in a bed of mashed yams and bordered with crisp sweet peas, come sprinkled with slivered almonds and finished with a drizzling of a special brown sauce. The dish not only illustrates the chef’s creativity and understanding, but the endless possibilities of a vegetarian diet. David brought out our second entrée the Taro Veggie Chicken A La King ($13.50), a remarkable dish of diced zucchini, soy ham, soy chicken, black mushrooms, red bell peppers, fresh soy beans and jicama sautéed in a special light brown sauce topped with cashews and served on a mashed taro ring.

Feeling full and satisfied, we somehow managed to order a dessert after reading over the enticing menu ranging from chocolate cake to soy ice cream. We opted to split the fruit cheesecake. Similar to that of Italian cheesecake, Green Melody’s vegan has a smooth consistency, yet rich flavor, that is highlighted with a drizzling of fruit nectar and accompanied with plump cubes of kiwi and strawberry and wedged of fresh apples skillfully widdled into butterflies.

Walking through Green Melody’s doors and toward our car we simultaneous agreed, it’s a good thing Yu doesn’t listen to her son, for this visit to the Chinese restaurant situated in the shopping center just behind the Millridge Inn was just as enlightening as each one before.

Green Melody
519 North Broadway
Jericho, NY
516-681-5715

Cuisine: Chinese Vegetarian/ Vegan
Atmosphere: Tranquil, Traditional Family Chinese
Hours: Monday - Thursday
11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Friday - Saturday
11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Sunday 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Main Menu