FOODIE
Breaking The Rules At City Cellar
By Brian Rafferty/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Unlike many fine wine restaurants where the bottles are neatly tucked away in a cool, dry spot downstairs, City Cellar’s wine cellar breaks the rules – it is enclosed in glass and behind the bar for all to see.

Set in a gigantic space that encompasses numerous tables, a gloriously large wine bar and even a wood fired brick oven counter, City Cellar is ripped right from the heart of South Beach, where its ownership family Big Time Restaurants runs a slew of high-end locales. It is entirely out of place on the strip behind the Source Mall, in a spot surrounded by corporate dining experiences that churn out one homogenized dish after another.

City Cellar has an inspired fusion menu with creative choices, blending Continental, Italian, Asian and American influences in dishes that are not only rich in flavor, but creative and imaginative. The wine pairings are superb, and with more than 40 varieties offered by the glass, there is sure to be something for everyone from the novice to the connoisseur.

We started out with the Onion and Mushroom Soup with Pinot Grigio ($7) and a special of the day, Cream of Crab soup served with a fresh hushpuppy ($7). The first is a delightful blend of two classic soups, giving a creamy flavor and heartiness to the broth while not taking away from the punch of the caramelized onions that fill the bowl. Topped with a handful of shredded cheese, it is a great retelling of an old story.
The crab soup is smooth, with strings of crab meat throughout and what taste like a sharp Pecorino shredded into the base – the cheese is hard, and the soup warm, so you can see the pieces of cheese in the soup, but by the time they hit your tongue they will melt away.

Our next course took two traditional dishes and turned them into wonderful updates. The Mediterranean Hummus, Hearth Baked Feta, Eggplant Caponata, Moroccan Olives and Flatbread ($11) is served with the bread as a sharp tower rising up from the varied accompaniments on the plate below. We also enjoyed a small iron skillet of Macaroni and Cheese ($9) with at least six kinds of cheeses and pieces of crumbled ham.

Moving on to our entrees, we again chose one from the menu and one special. The menu item was the 10-ounce Filet of Beef Tenderloin ($32) served with a Bordeaux reduction and accompanied by pan-fried potatoes and a Gorgonzola empanada. The filet is cooked to a perfect medium rare, seared sharply on the outside but still with that ribbon of red running through. The empanada is crisp and filled with that delightful bleu snap that goes so well with a perfect piece of beef.

My entrée was barbecued pork ribs in a Hoisin-based sauce served over garlic mashed potatoes and topped with a bed of crispy fried onions. The meat was fork-tender, the potatoes were wickedly smooth and the sauce was a great balance between Southern and Asian that helps highlight the fusion menu the City Cellar offers.

Resting for a moment as we sipped coffee, we perused the dessert menu and peeked at the plates being delivered to our fellow diners. Fresh-made pizzas, colorful salads, generous pasta bowls and succulent chops passed by, but our minds were set on something sweet.

Dessert was Banana Cream Doughnuts ($7.50), which are delightful miniature doughnuts filled with a warm banana cream and plated alongside vanilla bean gelato and a chocolate sauce. My guest’s dessert was considerably more elaborate and a special of the night. It was a Grand Marnier soufflé served with a Creamsicle sauce that does not get poured in until the dish arrives tableside. The texture was spot-on, light and fluffy while the sauce evoked childhood days of running through sprinklers with a fresh treat from the ice cream truck.

City Cellar may be located in a sea of family restaurants and shopping malls, but don’t let its neighbors fool you – it truly is a place that is worth the trip. Enjoy!

City Cellar Wine Bar & Grill
1080 Corporate Drive
Westbury, NY
(516) 693-5400

Cuisine: American Fusion
Atmosphere: Sleek & Sophisticated
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
weekdays, til 12 weekends
Lunch, dinner and mid-day menu

Main Menu